About a month ago, I ran into Josh Hardin at Vino’s; he imbibing, I brewing. Hardin came from his family’s fifth-generation farm in Grady, AR and has started a new organic, sustainable farm in Sheridan, Laughing Stock Farms. Josh and I met years ago one night under Bernice Gardens where we were pouring our wet hopped pale ale with hops from Dunbar Community Garden Project for Southern farmers involved in the Sustainable Agriculture Workers’ Group. Little Rock was the host that year, and as luck would have it, Dunbar’s hops came on spectacularly; it was a treat to share our locally hopped pale for a bunch of hard working farmers! I digress. Josh had mentioned he had a previous cask of the Citrus Ginger Wheat I did a while back and wondered if I might be interested in sourcing the ginger from him. I was interested, didn’t get his information, and as happens, that idea just kind of fell through the cracks…until I saw Josh at Vino’s again recently.

He mentioned he was soon to harvest his new baby ginger crop of “Big Kahuna” ginger and would love see some of it put to use in a Moody Brews creation. As it happened, he was also pulling a second harvest off his Black Diamond watermelons–I asked for both, not exactly knowing what I would do with them but knowing I wanted to work with them. About a week later, I get my ginger and watermelons.

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Baby ginger is much more delicate and less fibrous than what we normally find in the grocery store.

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Arkansas Black Diamond watermelons from Hardin Family Farms

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We received about 200 lbs of watermelon and about 7 lbs of ginger root in all. I had to hide them in the grain room to keep staff from getting into them! I had asked the staff what beer style they wanted to see out of the produce: wheat base, farmhouse base (always my pick), or IPA. Staff overwhelmingly chose an IPA.

The day before brew day, I began to prep the watermelons and ginger. Prepping produce for a brew is nothing new to me, but it should be noted the difference between adding extract and using fresh ingredients in brewing. Most times when a customer sees a fruited beer, they think of real fruit being added to the beer. In truth, many breweries are adding cans of pasteurized pureé (at best) or synthetic extract (at worst) to the beer. They do this for good reason: it’s a pain in the ass to process real fruit, real fruit spoils, real fruit is expensive, and you have to add a lot of it to come through in the finished product. It’s much easier to pour a pre-processed can into your fermenting beer, easier still to add faux-fruit-flavor at bottling. The problem is neither of these methods reveal the nuance of the fruit itself. It’s either homogenized or it’s candy-like/fake. I have used both in the past and have not been as pleased with the result as using the real thing, especially when it’s a product that grows so well locally. One of my guiding principles in brewing is using my trade to create a sense of place in my community, in my state. It’s far from a novel concept, indeed I’ve been doing it most of my brewing career, but it’s also how I can differentiate my brand. Anyway, back to the produce, man…

Prepping the ginger was easy. We rinsed the ginger well and ran it through a food processor to mince it. Watermelons were more involved. I knew I needed a lot of watermelon for it to come through in the beer since they are relatively dilute in flavor. I set up a makeshift station in the brewery and began removing fruit from rind.

I needed to separate pulp from juice because I didn’t have fermenter space for beer plus pulp of 15 watermelons. To purée all that watermelon, I initially thought to use a paint mixer/drill combo (a chef had given me advice on that) until I realized we had a cheese grater adapter for the Hobart© here at Vino’s.  So we ran the pulp through that, gallon by gallon, until we had about 20 gallons of purée. You can check out the video of the process on my instagram post (I was pretty excited about the idea, and it worked!).  We then poured the pureé into a bucket with cheesecloth, where we strained the juice by hand. We yielded nearly 1 gallon per melon, which I thought was pretty efficient and a testament to Josh’s farm–those melons were juicy, yo!

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Beautiful Hardin Family Farm Black Diamond Watermelons.

Once processed, we brewed the IPA. I made a unique recipe for this batch, heavy in malted white wheat, low in caramel malt or specialty grains. I wanted a dry base to allow the watermelon and ginger to come out on the palate and not be hidden behind sweet malt. I used only two varieties of hops, El Dorado and Citra with large doses in the whirlpool and as a dry hop. I placed the ginger in a hop sack (kind of like a cheesecloth) and dumped it in boiling wort to sanitize before hanging in the fermenter. Upon flameout, I dumped all 15 gallons of watermelon juice in the kettle, wanting to preserve as much flavor and aroma as possible (but also needing to sterilize the juice). Adding that much watermelon juice diluted the gravity of the wort just a bit, ending at 1.060 SG, yielding a 6.6% ABV brew.

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A few days ago, I tasted the beer out of primary fermentation (about 1 1/2 weeks on) at 66 degrees F. I was pleased with the nuanced layers of wheat, juicy hop, yes watermelon, and slight ginger on the back of the tongue. I hope you will be too. I can’t wait to see how those flavors hold up when the beer is cold, carbonated, and conditioned.

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We will release this beer first at a tap takeover event at Skinny J’s in Argenta this coming Thursday, Sept. 8th, 6-9pm. We will be pouring our Cuban Pull, a cuban coffee inspired brown ale, along with Vino’s Pulaski Pilsner, a Czech-style Pilsner at the event. Only about 110 gallons were made of this, so plan on coming to Skinny J’s or Vino’s soon: we’ll have it on tap at Vino’s beginning Friday, Sept. 9th.

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arkansas, Beer, brewing, craft beer, farm to table, Little Rock, local food

No cans, no extract: on prepping and brewing a fresh watermelon ginger IPA

crafting a locally sourced watermelon ginger IPA

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Most who know me, know how highly I regard my favorite acre of land in Little Rock: Dunbar Community Garden Project. But, for a refresher for non-Little Rock folk, Dunbar is a sui generis institution. One part typical urban community garden, where neighbors regularly volunteer their time to tend to the seemingly endless chores pertaining to the Garden’s upkeep, Dunbar also partially supports itself by selling its produce at Farmer’s Markets and to local restaurants.

 

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Plant Ideas. Grow Minds.

One part animal husbandry farm, complete with (the cutest) goats, chickens, sometimes a turkey or two.

 

One part apiary.

One part children’s education.

As it adjoins Dunbar Elementary School, teachers bring their students out regularly for lessons on life science including gardening, learning where and how our food comes from, and the importance of our pollinators (bees).

In addition to the above, Dunbar has grown hops for nearly a decade. I have been making local wet hopped beers for about four years now, and Vino’s has used the hops many years before that, under Bill Riffle’s tenure.

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Dunbar grown Cascade and Nugget hop varietals

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one of my first wet hopped beers (2012)

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Chris and I after a big hop harvest

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I took this big rhizome home and planted it in my garden

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anyone remember this batch? It was a winner!

In addition to hops, I have used plums in a hefeweizen:

 

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But most recently, I have been all about their pluots.

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A pluot is an apricot / plum hybrid fruit tree grown by crossing both species. The fruit retains characteristics of both fruits: tart, tangy, yet sweet as well. Damian Thompson, who runs operations and education outreach at Dunbar, picked and froze pluots all summer in 2015. I got my hands on approximately 46 lbs.

I wanted to really emphasize the fruit in the brew, so I used a very traditional, low hopped, moderately boozy farmhouse style base ale, fermented with yeast Grant Chandler had previously isolated from Dunbar. We brewed his hoppy wild ale when I worked with Damgoode Pies in the River Market, and I harvested and re-used this yeast.

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I have been keeping it going ever since, brewing everything from low alcohol hibiscus and orange peel saisons (Aria’s Bier) to traditional farmhouse ales (Dunbar Gardenhouse ale) to stronger, well hopped “super saisons” aged in Chardonnay barrels (Katchiri’s Bier), and at the time of writing, this yeast is fermenting a pear cider in collaboration with Stone’s Throw Brewing. As my favorite style of beer, I have found this wild Dunbar yeast contributes every complexity and nuance of any Belgian style farmhouse yeast I have ever worked with. I have been so pleased with it, I have ditched all other farmhouse strains I had kept going!

Back to the pluots. Rather than “infusing” beer with ingredients, I prefer actually fermenting with them. It might seem pedantic, but as a brewer, my job is to guide fermentation. Merely mixing a beer with an ingredient post-fermentation isn’t in keeping with my brewing philosophy. So, I knew I wanted to ferment the pluots. And I wanted the pluot flavor to really come through. To sanitize the pluots (I didn’t want to brew a sour), I took them home and began to stew them down on my stove.

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Dunbar Garden Pluots

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A little hoop while the pluots simmer on the stove

 

A few weeks prior, I brewed a batch of our Dunbar Gardenhouse ale (6.0% ABV), our take on a traditional farmhouse saison, fairly simple malt bill and low hopped.

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After pluots were stewed and cooled, they were pitted and pureed with the pits saved. We then added the pluot puree into a French Chardonnay barrel that was recently swelled with near boiling water.

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We then transferred our Dunbar Gardenhouse beer, unfiltered, into the barrels and unto the puree. Yeast still present in the beer quickly began fermenting the puree in the barrel. Barrel fermentation is an old technique that enhances the barrel wood flavor into the beer. We then simply let the beer condition atop the puree and pits for over 6 months, tasting periodically until we felt the beer contained the appropriate characteristics in balance with eachother: tart, dryness, jammy fruit, oak character, juicy wine aromatics, etc.

Finally, we decided it was ready, and last week we racked a nearly 8-month old farmhouse ale out of its extended rest in barrels. We brought most of it back to a brite tank, where we force carbonated the beer and put into kegs (all unfiltered). We also decided against adding pectinase enzyme. During the stewing process, pectin from the pluot peel is released into solution, and, later into beer. Pectin contributes to a cloudy, hazy beer, and most home brewing or professional brewing books will tell you to always add an enzyme (pectinase) to break down the pectin to preserve clarity. I opted not to do this. In fact I opted not to filter at any stage in this process. I wanted haze. I wanted to preserve every bit of pluot, wild yeast, and barrel flavor. Damian, Chris, and the kids at Dunbar had hand picked every pluot and saved them for me; I wanted this beer to have as much authentic flavor as possible.

I proudly present the final product: Dunbar Garden Wild Pluot Ale!

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I have further hand bottled, and bottle conditioned a few cases of this beer and donated them to Dunbar. These bottles will be available at Garden events for a suggested donation of $15 (tax deductible) to the Garden.

We will release this beer, 8 months in the making, May 21st, the night of Dunbar Garden’s Pig Roast Fundraiser. This promises to be a night to remember, with a sit-down dinner in the Garden prepared by local chefs, Catholic High School jazz band and other local musicians, our pluot beer and our farmhouse pear cider! These are the kind of events that create a sense of place in our community, so let’s celebrate! Tickets available here. We can’t wait to see you there! Come have a beer with us in the Garden!

beer at dunbar

arkansas, Beer, brewing, community garden, craft beer, farm to table, gardening, Little Rock, local food, microbrew, urban farm, urban farming, urban garden, wild ale

on pluots and patience

Our collaborative beer with Dunbar Community Garden Project: Dunbar Garden Wild Pluot Ale

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